Underwear has been creeping into view in recent menswear seasons, playing peek-a-boo at Dolce & Gabbana in Milan, inspiring shorts at Acne Studios, and front and centre on actor Paul Mescal in boxer shorts at the Gucci show last year. For women, the impact is different.
βThe use of underwear as outerwear for women always has subversive connections,β says fashion academic Paola Di Trocchio. βUnderwear projects messages of female rebellion and empowerment. Just think back to the work of Vivienne Westwood or Jean Paul Gaultierβs cone bras, worn by Madonna.β
The subversive work of Australian designers Prue Acton and Jenny Bannister from the β70s can be added to the local history of underwear on view. Museums Victoriaβs collection of more than 250 undergarments includes a calico, lace-up bustier by Acton from an βunderwear lookβ range in 1972, and a dress with a black fishnet bodice and skirt by Bannister from 1976.
βThe meanings of some garments have changed over time, blurring the lines between underwear and outerwear,β says curator Deb Tout-Smith. βSimple undergarments like camisoles have become acceptable outerwear.
βThe T-shirt, originally a manβs undergarment, is now everyday outerwear.β
T-shirts at a Schiaparelli haute couture show? Now, that would have been truly shocking.
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