What this underrated city in the US is also one of the best

When I pictured Nashville, capital of the US state of Tennessee, I envisioned the “yee-haw” howls of honky-tonk bars filled with people clad in rhinestone-studded denim, pointy-toed embroidered boots and Stetson hats, all boot-scooting to the latest country music hits. And I definitely found that. But I also found a lot more: fine dining restaurants, swish cocktail bars and trailblazing record stores; a diverse and vibrant city that sang from a different song sheet from the usual mournful ballads about heartbreak and whiskey.

At an ice hockey game at Bridgestone Arena music blares and pre-game entertainment has the crowd pumped. The lights are dimmed, and we’re directed to “stand for your Predators”, Nashville’s team. The arena roars, the rowdy crowd chanting in unison. Players skate at insane speeds, thumping their bodies against the barriers, the tapping and snapping of sticks providing a hypnotic soundtrack to accompany the chaos in the rink. Equally mesmerising is the choreographed dance of the ice cleaners between quarters, sweeping up the ice fragments shattered by the players’ skates.

For an authentic Nashville experience you can’t beat the Grand Ole Opry theatre, where you’ll gain an insight into country music.

DANIELLE NORTON

That fastidious service extends to Nashville’s restaurants, which are overflowing with waitstaff oozing Southern charm, every conversation punctuated by “Y’all”, “Yes, ma’am” and “Bless your heart”. We’re welcomed by the owner himself, Kahlil Arnold, into Arnold’s Country Kitchen, a diner Dolly Parton once named as one of her favourite place to eat in Nashville, to eat Southern-style barbecue. We load our plates with fried shrimp, fried green tomatoes, mac’n’cheese, hot sauce and cornbread. Healthy? Probably not. Delicious? Most definitely.

In East Nashville we dine at Bad Idea, which proves to be anything but. “Everyone said opening a wine bar with a Laos-inspired menu in Nashville would be a bad idea,” says Alex Burch, co-owner and head sommelier. He was wrong, with Bad Idea recently named one of the top restaurants in the country by The New York Times.

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Sipping on orange wine, we feast on New Zealand lamb with a fennel and coriander rub and yellowfin tuna cooked six ways (my favourite is in a vol-au-vent with a brandy and shrimp emulsion).

We follow up with cocktails at The Fox Bar & Cocktail Club, where the vibe is cool elegance rather than honky-tonk fun. I quickly stash my sparkly cowboy hat in a corner.

Fans of Jack White of the White Stripes can visit the famous Blue Room at Third Man Records, where performances are recorded directly to acetate. Our guide tells us that “Jack is a pioneer in bringing back vinyl”. This exclusive live venue hosts only 250 guests per show, and black- and blue-coloured vinyl recordings of the performance are mailed afterwards to all attendees. Artists such as Willie Nelson, Jack Johnson and Coldplay have all recorded in the space, and Billie Eilish recently performed live.