The ‘barbie tanning drug’ on the rise on social media

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John Frew, a fellow of the Australasian College of Dermatologists and director of research at The Skin Hospital in Sydney, says he’s noticed an increase in patients talking about the drug.

“About two years ago, it started taking off. So a lot more people, either offhandedly saying they were using it or someone that would come in and look a lot more tanned, and say they’ve been using it,” he says.

In January this year, the TGA issued a consumer warning regarding the illegal supply and advertising of tanning products containing melanotan and the dangers associated with such products.

In the 2024-25 financial year to 31 March 2025, the TGA requested the removal of more than 12,000 unlawful advertisements from digital platforms, which include a number of social media profiles dedicated to advertising melanotan products.

What are the risks?

The biggest risk associated with melanotan, says Frew, is the development of abnormal moles that can increase the risk of melanoma. But he says there have yet to be any large, placebo-controlled trials on the effects of melanotan.

Some products containing melanotan encourage their use in conjunction with tanning beds or sun tanning, which can further increase the risk of skin cancer. Others claim they are protective against sun damage.

Frew points out that there have been cases of people developing abnormal moles inside their noses after using melanotan sprays, discrediting the theory that moles can only develop in places exposed to the sun.

A 2024 observational study on marketing and perceptions of melanotan on social media found that a minority of posts mentioned the risks of adverse effects, while fewer still indicated it is unregulated and illegal to sell. More than a third of posts claimed that melanotan was protective against skin cancer.

Other risks, although rare, Frew says, include kidney damage and failure, brain swelling and priapism – a painful erection that does not go away without surgical intervention.

Headache, nausea, vomiting, loss of appetite, facial flushing and redness are other commonly reported side effects, says Armour.

Given that melanotan II is an unregulated drug, it is impossible to know exactly what is in each product, which may “contain toxic, counterfeit or low-quality ingredients,” says Armour.

Are other tanning products safe?

If you do want to achieve bronzed skin without risking your health, there are alternatives.

“The only safe tan is a fake tan,” says dermatologist Professor Deshan Sebaratnam of The Skin Hospital in Sydney.

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“Fake tan is a harmless sugar called dihydroxyacetone which binds to the top layer of the skin, colouring it,” he says.

Still, “it is important to note that no tan, real or artificial, protects our skin adequately from DNA damage induced by sun exposure. So, appropriate sun protection is still necessary in the context of using a self-tanner,” says Armour.

“Those with a history of atopic dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis or rosacea may experience an exacerbation of this skin condition with sunless self-tanning agents due to additives in some formulations. A patch test prior to use can easily mitigate this risk.”

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